Steven van der Meulen – Portrait of a Woman, probably Catherine Carey, Lady Knollys
1562. 109×79
Location: Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, New Haven.
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The portrait presents a woman positioned against a stark, dark background that emphasizes her presence and attire. Her gaze is directed towards the viewer with a directness suggesting confidence or perhaps a subtle challenge. The composition is tightly cropped, focusing primarily on the upper body and head, which contributes to an intimate feel.
She wears a complex ensemble of clothing indicative of considerable wealth and status. A white linen coif frames her face, contrasting sharply with the dark fur trim adorning the black velvet gown. This fur appears to be ermine or another valuable pelt, signifying high social standing. The elaborate jewelry – a pendant suspended from a chain and rings on her fingers – further underscores this affluence. The pendant itself is particularly noteworthy; its intricate design and apparent size suggest it holds significant personal or familial value.
A small dog, likely a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, sits at her feet. Its presence introduces an element of domesticity and companionship to the otherwise formal presentation. The dog’s warm brown coloring provides a visual counterpoint to the cool tones of the white linen and silver jewelry.
Inscribed in the upper right corner are numerals: AETATIS SVAE. 38. A° DOM. 1602. This inscription reveals her age at the time of the portrait’s creation, placing it within a specific historical context. The use of Roman numerals and the Latin abbreviation for anno Domini (year of our Lord) are characteristic of the period.
Beyond the surface depiction of wealth and status, subtle subtexts emerge. The womans direct gaze could be interpreted as an assertion of agency in a patriarchal society. Her carefully constructed appearance suggests a deliberate presentation of self, potentially intended to convey power or influence. The inclusion of the dog might symbolize loyalty, affection, or even a desire to soften a potentially formidable image. Overall, the portrait offers a glimpse into the life and social standing of a woman within a specific historical moment, revealing not only her material possessions but also hinting at her personality and aspirations.