Roerich N.K. – Sketch of costume Polovchanka (Captive, Polonyanka)
1909. Cardboard, watercolor, pencil, ink. 32.2 x 18.8 cm.
Location: St. Petersburg State Museum of Theater and Music. Russian
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The artist has rendered the figure with a relatively loose style, utilizing watercolor washes that create a sense of fluidity in the fabric drapery. The costume itself is complex, composed of layers and textures. A short, heavily embroidered bodice reveals portions of the midriff, suggesting both exoticism and a degree of exposure. Over this, a green shawl or jacket is draped across her shoulders, partially obscuring one arm. A long, striped skirt falls to the ground, its pattern adding visual interest and movement. The head covering, adorned with what appears to be a decorative band, frames the face and contributes to an overall sense of otherness.
The color palette is dominated by earth tones – ochre, brown, green – punctuated by touches of red in the embroidery and skirt stripes. This limited range reinforces the feeling of a specific cultural context or historical period. The footwear, simple sandals with decorative elements, further emphasizes this connection to a particular tradition.
Subtly, theres an element of melancholy conveyed through the figure’s stance and expression. The costume, while elaborate, appears worn and somewhat disheveled, hinting at hardship or captivity. The exposed midriff could be interpreted as a symbol of vulnerability or exploitation within a power dynamic. The overall impression is one of a woman caught between cultures, perhaps representing a captive or exile, her identity defined by circumstance rather than choice. The sketch’s unfinished quality – the lack of detailed background and the somewhat hasty rendering – suggests its an exploratory study, intended to capture not just the appearance but also the essence of a character burdened by a complex narrative.