Hans Eworth – Portrait of a woman, aged sixteen, previously identified as Mary Fitzalan, Duchess of Norfolk
1565. 89×71
Location: Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Collection, New Haven.
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The woman’s attire immediately signals wealth and privilege. She wears a sumptuous red velvet gown, richly embroidered with gold thread in intricate patterns along the sleeves and neckline. A complex arrangement of pearls and jewels adorns her neck, forming a high, stiff ruff – a fashionable element of the period that served to accentuate social standing. The elaborate headwear, also embellished with jewels, further reinforces this impression of opulence. In her left hand, she holds a rolled document or letter, suggesting literacy and perhaps hinting at intellectual pursuits or correspondence of importance.
The background is deliberately subdued; a dark green curtain provides a neutral backdrop that allows the subject’s vibrant clothing to take center stage. The limited depth of field focuses attention entirely on the woman herself. A small inscription in the upper right corner, partially obscured but legible, includes numerals suggesting a date within the mid-16th century.
Beyond the surface depiction of wealth and status, subtle nuances suggest a more complex narrative. Her expression is not overtly joyful; rather, it conveys a sense of quiet composure bordering on melancholy. The slightly downturned mouth and the directness of her gaze hint at an awareness of responsibility or perhaps even a nascent understanding of the constraints placed upon women within her social sphere. The formality of the pose, while intended to project dignity, also creates a distance between the subject and the viewer, suggesting a guarded personality.
The overall effect is one of carefully constructed presentation – a portrait designed not merely to record likeness but to communicate lineage, status, and an idealized image of youthful virtue within a hierarchical society.