Hans Eworth – Mildred, Lady Burghley
oil on panel
Location: Hatfield House, Hertfordshire, UK
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The elaborate costume is immediately striking. A high-necked black gown forms the base, adorned with intricate embroidery that cascades down the sleeves and bodice. These embellishments appear to be made from a combination of metallic threads – silver and gold – along with pearls and other precious materials, suggesting considerable wealth and status. The stiff, starched ruff encircles her neck, a hallmark of fashionable dress during this period, adding to the overall impression of formality and refinement. A delicate headdress, also embellished with jewels, frames her face.
Her hands are clasped gently in front of her, holding what appears to be a small posy of flowers – rosemary, specifically. This detail carries symbolic weight; rosemary traditionally represents remembrance and fidelity. The gesture itself is restrained, avoiding any overt display of sentimentality.
To the right, affixed to a dark shield or panel, is a heraldic crest. Its presence reinforces the subject’s noble lineage and signifies her place within a specific social hierarchy. The details of the coat of arms would provide further insight into family connections and claims.
The lighting in this painting is carefully controlled. It illuminates the face and upper body, highlighting the textures of the fabrics and jewelry while leaving the background shrouded in shadow. This technique draws attention to the subject’s personage and reinforces her importance. The overall effect is one of dignified composure and understated elegance, indicative of a woman accustomed to power and privilege.
Subtly, theres an air of melancholy or introspection conveyed through the direct gaze and the restrained posture. While projecting status and authority, the portrait also hints at a deeper complexity within the subject’s character. The flowers held in her hands seem less like a celebratory gesture and more like a quiet acknowledgement of something lost or remembered.