William Larkin – Portrait of Frances Howard (1590-1632) Countess of Somerset
c.1615 oil on panel
Location: National Portrait Gallery, London.
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Here we see an elaborate ruff encircling her neck, constructed from layers of stiffened linen or lace. Its intricate design draws attention to the throat and collarbone, contributing to an overall impression of wealth and status. The fabric of her gown is a rich crimson hue, visible primarily at the neckline and sleeves. The sleeves themselves are adorned with delicate embroidery, hinting at further luxurious details beyond what is immediately apparent.
The woman’s hair is styled in dark waves, carefully arranged around her face to frame it. A subtle sheen on the skin suggests careful application of cosmetics, typical for portraiture of this period. Her lips are painted a pale pink, and a delicate blush highlights her cheekbones. The overall effect is one of idealized beauty, though not without an underlying sense of restraint.
Subtleties within the composition suggest complexities beyond a simple representation of aristocratic elegance. The directness of her gaze, while seemingly assertive, could also be interpreted as defensive or even slightly guarded. The darkness surrounding her figure creates a sense of isolation, hinting at potential social constraints or personal burdens. The meticulous detail afforded to the ruff and gown contrasts with the obscured background, implying that outward appearance and societal standing were paramount concerns.
The painting’s composition and execution speak to an era preoccupied with displays of status and carefully constructed identities. It is a portrait intended not only to record likeness but also to convey a specific narrative about the sitters position within her social sphere.