House of models. Image industry Automatic translate

On March 16, the Museum of Moscow will start a parallel program for the exhibition House of Models. Image Industry. For three months, designers, historians, restorers, editors and researchers will discuss the fashion industry in the Soviet and modern context. The first event was the round table “Fashion Phenomenon under Socialism”.

The parallel program for the exhibition consists of three thematic blocks: Fashion Theory, Fashion of the Local and Interpretation of the Folk. In the first block “Theory of Fashion”, the authors of the scientific-theoretical and cultural journal of the same name will talk about modern studies of Soviet fashion through the prism of anthropology, cultural studies and sociology. Also, the editor-in-chief of the magazine, Lyudmila Alyabyeva, will hold a discussion on modern curatorial practices in exhibiting local fashion.

In the second block "Local Fashion", which will be held in partnership with the Trend Island department store, experts will consider Soviet and modern Russian fashion from the point of view of fashion trends reproduction. Lecture topics: the phenomenon of pattern magazines and the peculiarities of local fashion journalism. There will also be two discussions with designers and editors on how to shape trends.

The third block "Interpretation of the Folk" will be devoted to the relevance of elements of traditional clothing in the collections of Soviet and modern designers. In addition, a series of lectures with shows will be held together with the costume restorers for the House of Models exhibition, Maria Orlova and Andrey Skatkov.

Also, together with the main information partner of the exhibition, The Blueprint, an independent publication on fashion, beauty and modern culture, several special events will be held as part of the parallel program.

Parallel Program Schedule

Round table "The phenomenon of fashion in the conditions of socialism"

March 16, 19:00, Museum of Moscow, lecture area in the exhibition space

Block "Fashion Theory"

After the October Revolution, relations between fashion and the Soviet state developed very rapidly: the bold experiments of the constructivists, who sought to create new clothes for new people, were replaced by decades of futile attempts to tame fashion with a planned economy. In both cases, the official version of fashion did not coincide with the aspirations of the Soviet man, who used different tools and strategies to compensate for the lack of fashionable clothes. Together with Lyudmila Alyabyeva, editor-in-chief of Theory of Fashion magazine, the participants of the round table will discuss the phenomenon of socialist fashion and the reflection of its specificity at the exhibition.

Moderator:

Lyudmila Alyabieva, Editor-in-Chief of Theory of Fashion magazine, Academic Director of the HSE Postgraduate School of Art and Design

Speakers:

Tatyana Dashkova, specialist in Soviet visual culture, associate professor at the Russian State University for the Humanities and Higher School of Economics, author of the book “Physicality – Ideology – Cinematography. Visual canon and Soviet everyday life”

Olga Vainshtein, fashion historian, leading researcher at the E. M. Meletinsky Institute for Higher Humanitarian Studies, Russian State University for the Humanities

Ksenia Guseva, art historian, historian of textile design, curator of the exhibition “House of Models. Image Industry”

Lecture "From peasant clothes to folk costume: lifestyle and fashion"

March 23, 18:30

Block "Interpretation of Folk"

Lecturer: Svetlana Adonieva, folklorist, doctor of philological sciences, professor

In pre-revolutionary Russia, the lifestyle directly depended on the class: noble (nobility, clergy) or simple (merchants, bourgeoisie, peasantry). The most numerous estate - the peasantry - was called the people. After October 1917, a new way of life was developed for the Soviet people, and the word "people" changed its meaning. According to Ozhegov’s dictionary of 1949, these are no longer peasants, but "the population of the state, the inhabitants of the country." Examining and researching rural photographs of the 1920s–1960s, lecturers will see how the “new way of life”, coming into village life, changed preferences and values ​​articulated by traditional peasant clothing, as well as how peasant aesthetics, reworked by the professional art of the Soviet city, returned to the Soviet village with a new agenda of the “people”.

Lecture "Fashion production in a provincial fashion house"

March 28, Tuesday, 19:00

Block "Fashion Theory"

Lecturer: Yulia Papushina, Candidate of Sociological Sciences, researcher of provincial fashion houses

In 1948, the Moscow House of Models becomes All-Union: 12 republican and regional fashion houses are combined into one system. Yulia Papushina’s lecture will be devoted to the history of the Perm Fashion House. At the meeting, you will be able to see the preserved archival materials and publications of models in catalogs and all-Russian fashion magazines, as well as excerpts from the advertising film “Old Man. Taste. Fashion "1970.

Lecture “You can’t forbid living beautifully: fashionable images in Soviet films of the era of thaw and stagnation”

April 5, Wednesday, 19:00

Block "Fashion Theory"

Lecturer: Tatyana Dashkova, specialist in Soviet visual culture, associate professor at the Russian State University for the Humanities and Higher School of Economics, author of the book “Physicality – Ideology – Cinematography. Visual canon and Soviet everyday life”

Soviet cinema became fashionable in the era of the thaw, along with the podium appearance of Lyudmila Gurchenko in Carnival Night and the recognition of consumer culture in the film Behind the Store Window. From that moment on, stylishly dressed people appear more and more often in Soviet films, the profession of a fashion model gets the right to screen life, and the podium can even find a place for itself in a country club. At the same time, in a society of scarcity, fashion will remain under suspicion for a long time, and the desire to dress beautifully will grow all the time on the basis of “capitalist remnants” - speculation and “crowing before the West.” The audience of the lecture will learn the controversial history of the Soviet film fashion, see how fashion shows and fashionable behavior have changed from the early thaw to the late stagnation.

There will also be three lectures in the Fashion Theory block:

Olga Vainshtein, philologist, fashion historian, leading researcher at the Institute of Higher Humanitarian Studies named after E. M. Meletinsky RSUH will talk about the phenomenon of dressmakers in Soviet culture

Nadezhda Plungyan, art historian, independent curator and author of The Birth of a Soviet Woman. Worker, peasant woman, pilot, "former" and others in the art of 1917-1939" will tell about the urban type of the 1930s: from a fashion sheet to a Soviet painting

Ksenia Guseva, textile design historian and curator of the exhibition House of Models. Image Industry” will describe how prints and designs of Soviet fabrics were created, and how fashion houses and factories interacted with each other

The block will end with a discussion with curators about modern practices in exhibiting local fashion, moderated by Lyudmila Alyabyeva, editor-in-chief of Theory of Fashion magazine.

The partner block with Trend Island will host a lecture by Maria Orlova and Andrey Skatkov about the phenomenon of Soviet pattern magazines. Local fashion journalism in the post-Soviet period will be the subject of a lecture by Olga Mikhailovskaya, curator of the Fashion Journalism and Media Creation program at the British Higher School of Design.

A detailed schedule of lectures and discussions for April, May and June will be published on the exhibition page on the museum website: https://mosmuseum.ru/exhibitions/p/dom_mod/ .